Artist Samantha Turner
COUNTER COUTURE: Fashion and Style in the American Counterculture of the 1960s and 1970s. This blog celebrates and archives the work of students in instructor Michael Cepress' course at the University of Washington. An exciting collaboration between the university's School of Art and Comparative History of Ideas Program, Counter Couture looks to the past in order for students to create a new richness in their own creative lives.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Hannah Yu: Jimi Hendrix
I clearly recall a recent trip to the EMP Museum in
Seattle. I was very excited to see Michael Jackson’s famous white glove and
Kurt Cobain’s guitars, but what struck me was seeing an exhibit which
prominently displayed one of Jimi Hendrix’s most wild flamboyant costumes. At
first I thought it was for a ballerina, but then I read the description and saw
it was for Hendrix, the famous American musician from the 70’s. From the
exhibit I could tell that Hendrix was very counter culture—a rebel persona. I immediately
enjoyed the brightness of the costumes, and I could really see a connection
between them and the music of that era. Literally, Jimi’s clothes seemed to
capture the essence of the 60’s and 70’s music and counter-culture.
After finding Jimi’s extremely dynamic fashion so
interesting I came upon the idea for my final project: I would make a paper
doll of Jimi Hendrix with several interchangeable outfits! I had experience
making paper doll’s when I was in 3rd grade and I knew I could create something
that would allow an audience to actually interact and become involved in
imagining and styling Jimi.
Since there are many books showing images of Jimi and
his various outfits and fashions (of which I personally read seventeen books
myself) I was able to identify his main styles as well as the accessories that
he used to vary them! For example, I found that Jimi used scarves to add flair
to his typical outfits. This way he was able to quickly and easily make his own
variations on his style every day; and also this way I would be able capture
some of his diversity by creating some pieces he would have used as accents. Often
times, Jimi would put a scarf on his hat, head, neck, on his thigh or leg, or
even as a belt. In one picture I counted he was wearing seven scarves on his
leg. He also had only one hat, but by using many different scarves he was able
to create a steady but ever-changing variety of outfits. He always wore his
clothes in layers; shirts inside, then vests, and coats outside. It was common
to see him wearing jackets with ruffled shirring, lace, or flower print. Over
all his fashion could have been seen as very feminine if not for his
incredible, powerful, masculine character.
Fortunately, by choosing paper dolls as my project, I
was able to make as many clothes as I could within the time. I was able to
create Jimi’s paper doll as an 11 inch by 30.5 inch tall man, with 9 shirts, 10
pants, 6 jackets, 2 vests, 4 pairs of shoes, 1 necklace, 1 fether, and 13
scarves! This also meant that I could provide the audience a greater number of
combinations that could be made from Jimi’s various clothes and accessories. Indeed,
while making Jimi’s clothes I myself had great fun playing with different
jackets, adding pants here, or scarves there, and even a feather for his hat! Because
all of Jimi’s paper clothes are based on the actual clothes he wore in real
life, anyone can enjoy changing and playing with his outfits as if they
themselves where 60’s rock stars, choosing what to wear that day.
Celeste Hansen: Illustrations of Future Past
My
project is comprised of fashion illustrations in the style of vogue of the
1960s, which show the fashions of Mary Quant from the early 1970s, accompanied
by some of her personal quotes. By creating an amalgamation of these elements,
I hope to bring forth the best in both, highlighting their strengths;
demonstrating the beauty of the fashions’ design through the simplicity of the
illustration’s line weight.
Artist Celeste Hansen
Hatsune Akaogi: Paper Garments
With the rise of hem-lines and a
look toward the future, America seemed infatuated with the idea of disposable
clothing. The short lived fad of paper
dresses lasted for a mere two years between 1966 and 1968 but the idea of never
having to do laundry in the space age saw an enormous popularity, first
introduced by the Scott Paper Company.
The simple A-line design and the printable material that the dresses
were made of gave another platform to display not only the popular prints of pop
art and op art but also provided another facet for marketing and advertising.
The dresses were sold in plastic packaging for only a few dollars, being
accessible to the masses, but also launching a whole industry of paper
boutiques, selling a wide range of paper goods.
By looking to the paper dresses of
the 1960’s for inspiration and a starting point, I have created three garments
all made from paper of different sorts.
The first is an orange and white
rendition of the original “Paper Caper” dresses, as the Scott Paper Company
called them, with the A-line silhouette and a tie-back closure. This dress is made from beverage napkins that
I have quilted together and a hem completed with paper doilies.
The second is a fun and simple
party dress with a white bodice and a black full skirt. The bodice is acrylic-painted Pellon
interfacing, a material that is closest to the 93% cellulose and 7% rayon used
in the original paper dresses. The skirt
is tissue paper ironed on to fusible Pellon.
The final garment is a
kimono-inspired red evening wrap dress.
It includes an obi-like belt with a large bow in the back. The dress skirt and bodice are both made from
paper tablecloth. The skirt and obi have
layered crepe paper sewn in rows. The
bow itself is made from layered tissue paper.
Some original 1960s paper dresses
Paper napkin dress with paper doily hem
Pellon dress with tissue paper skirt
Kimono-wrap
dress. Paper table cloth and crepe paper
Artist Hatsune Akaogi
Anya Savranskaya: Dance and Movement as New Fashion of 60s and 70s
Beautiful things happen when people dance together. Movement
brings joyful energy, warmth, and connection. Music inspires kindred
frequencies. The language of movement has always fascinated me, how people of
different nations can unite and experience similar emotions and ideas through
their connection in dance. The passion for dance was my beginning point for
this project. But the journey that I set out to take had many surprises along
the way. Through this project I have met amazing people, reconnected with old
friends, and have grown personally.
Late 60s and early 70s have transformed the dance culture
along with all other changes that were happening in America. It became all
about exploration of one’s freedom, expression of one’s individuality, and
connection between mind, body, and spirit. Dance became a celebration of life
through movement. Even in professional circles, dance companies were exploring
new territories. Performances were not reserved for closed spaces any longer,
but spilled out into streets, parks, forests. And anyone could dance! And
everyone did!
Many colorful bright fun-loving people joined together to
recreate the spirit of 60s/70s dance happening. Kevin Phinney was our own super
amazing DJ, spinning the most electrifying tunes. I was inspired by Kevin’s
commitment and integrity to put my heart and dedication into something I
believe in. As the perfect setting for the dance my dear friend Shimi Kahn
offered his magic house with beautiful view and spacious backyard. Louise Roby
supported me and provided many useful ideas for this happening, and her husband Bob Roby along with my classmate Nicole Xu provided their amazing photography skills.
And of course, I want to thank my professor Michael Cepress for the adventure
that he made the Counter Couture class to be and for supporting me through the
whole process and personally joining us in the dance celebration.
Besides the dance happening that I organized, I also
participated in the Dances of Universal Peace, which were originally created by
Murshid Samuel L. Lewis (1896-1971). The Dances are simple and full of joy and
meditative flow; and their purpose is “to increase joy, not awe towards another
person, but bliss in our own self. This is finding God within, through
experience.” ~ Sufi Sam
Anya Savranskaya
Jess Yu
This topic will explore the different methods that were used
to promote 1960’s and 1970’s fashion or how it represented the brand. This
topic will also analyze design elements such as the font and layout that were
used. An objective of this research is to compare and contrast the
advertisements used in mainstream publications such as Vogue, Life, Elle etc.
magazines and counter-culture publications such as Helix and Rags. In addition,
I will also analyze the advertisements of today in a modern issue of the very
same magazines.
The following images will be organized in 8 sets of 2 images
with each set representing a category. The first image will juxtapose three
advertisements against each other (Mainstream vs. Counter-culture vs. My
Interpretation.) The second image will be a close-up of my interpretation.
THE DRAWING
1 Both are advertising clothes but one has a realistic
approach with structured text while the other has an illustrative approach with
handwritten texts.
2 I combined the feminine figure of the illustration from
the mainstream advertisement with the overlaying texts element from the
counter-culture advertisement. There were colored illustration ads but this one
was black and white to keep this set consistent.
THE TRIANGLE
3 The idea of the pubic triangle is often used in
advertisements that sell jeans, stockings and shoes.
4 A similar interpretation but a mosaicked rear view to
emphasize the nudity in the counter-culture ad that is often not seen in
mainstream ad.
THE PERFUME
5 MS perfume ads often display attraction and seduction
while CC perfume ads are more about bring their own personality out and being
themselves.
6 In my interpretation, the girl is seductive, but also being
herself.
THE T-SHIRT
7 Another example of font vs. hand-drawn/written. Notice the
amount of detail and content on the T-shirts on the CC ad.
8 Again, I combined the hand-drawn aspects with the
mainstream icons.
THE SMOKING
9 Cigarette ads in MS often sells that its ok to smoke and
often as an act to show power and be rebellious. However, smoking in CC ads is
often about relaxation and finding the inner peace.
10 Here, I have a girl enjoying a cigarette not as an act
but just because she is doing so to relax.
THE FIGURE
11 The way woman are represented in MS ads often display
perfect figure with a sexual tone. Never will an ad in MS magazines display a
pregnant lady.
12 The lady in this ad has her figure subtly altered as you
move to right. This is to emphasize that the audience is often blinded by the
presentations by ad companies and we never recognize anything else.
THE MEN’S
13 The choice of models of men is often Hollister-style or
masculine and to have an overweight man in bellbottom pants is very
counter-culture.
14 I combined the idea of a fine looking man with clothes
and pants from different styles highlighting the fact that man and woman don’t
have to always dress one way or the other.
BETSEY JOHNSON
15 Betsey Johnson was once a counter-culture fashion company
and even though it retains much of the flamboyant design, the way it is
marketed and advertised is completely different.
16 Finally, I combined elements pulled from both ads.
Artist Jess Yu
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)